We have prepared a full set of instructions and a video. Essentially they are designed to just cut open and spray with water. Any troubleshooting please read through the FAQ below.
No, most gourmet mushies like darkness half the day and dim light half the day. Just like if they were in the bush, under a tree canopy.
As long as they are away from direct sunlight they are fine. Light can be supplied by a light bulb or through a sheer blind or cracked open block out blind.
Inside your kit bag is a living organism, we recommend opening it upon purchase.
If you’re not ready to use it, keep your kit in the fridge for up to 3 weeks.
All of the strains we sell are vigorous, so after storing for a few weeks they may start fruiting inside the bag! Strains like Lion’s Mane and Pink oysters are known for premature pinning (to start fruiting) before the bag is open.
Do not put Pink Oysters in the fridge. Being a tropical strain it doesn’t like the cold “brrrr” 🥶🥶
Anywhere away from direct sunlight, although most gourmet mushies prefer half day of dim light and half day of darkness 😴 , as long as “you can read a newspaper in the room” there is enough light for them. Too much light may discolour, not enough, they might grow pale.
Look for a cooler corner in your house, it’s always better to be on the cooler side then warmer side of recommended temperature range.
We recommend growing inside as temperatures and humidity don’t fluctuate as much (most homes will range from 20° C to 25°C). Try to avoid the laundry if you use a drier often or a bathroom where you have hot showers. Hot steam is no good to your mushroom kit as it increases chances of contamination, normally from mold.
Pay attention at harvest time, to minimize or avoid spores flowing into the air.
No, being a living organism, mushroom mycelium needs to breathe. Fresh air exchange (FAE) is equally important as keeping humidity high. Oysters especially, are hungry for fresh air! Without it they will produce long stems and their caps will not open (they still think they are underground, boring trough to find air, silly things! )
Fun fact: Mushrooms mycelium inhale oxygen and exhale CO2, it’s said that their DNA is more similar to animals than to plants. 🤔
We recommend one “X” cut no bigger than 10cm x 10cm. Leave the flaps in, this is to hold humidity in the bag as long as possible.
Don’t worry, the mushrooms can squeeze from tiny cuts/holes and flourish. These smart things detect the fresh air and flush in that direction.
Remember, the bigger the cuts, the faster humidity will escape and your block will dry out, potentially minimizing your mushroom yield.
That white and soft “web-like” form is the mushroom mycelium. This is the living fungus organism which is normally buried in the soil or in tree trunks. The mushroom we normally eat is their fruit form. Some strains have more prominent mycelium than others and will look “whiter” or “fluffier” than others.
Tip: Google mycelium facts” to learn amazing facts of this widely unknown living kingdom.
If you see patches of green, black or orange, that could be a mold contamination. This is unlikely while the bag is still closed and sealed. If you suspect your kit has mold contamination, reach out to us via our facebook/instagram messenger with pictures for advice.
If you’re using the tub technique, keep the newspaper/cardboard damp at all times.
5x spray squirts, at least 2x a day direct at the kit, where you cut open. There’s no harm in spraying 3 or more times a day if you are around and it is a dry day.
We guarantee at least one flush (fruiting) of mushrooms when following our instructions. But it’s likely you’ll get a second, third and even fourth flush with care and patience.
Mastering mushroom growing takes practice. Be patient, follow the instructions and try to maintain a humid environment for your kit and it will succeed.
We only sell seasonal strains for your best chance to succeed (in cooler months = cool loving strains, in warmer months = warm loving strains). Although we cannot control weather, like a heatwave in september.
In terms of yields, expect about 200g to 300g on your first flush for Oysters (remember, mushrooms are light so volume is high), This varies significantly from species to species and the environment they’re growing.
Following flushes are likely to be smaller and smaller until the mycelium runs out of energy.
We recommend using your grow kit for the purpose of fruiting as per these instructions and not expanding again (as expansion of an original kit without sound knowledge and equipment is very likely to lead to contamination and an unusable product).
If you feel confident to make your own mushroom blocks we highly encourage you to look at our range of Grain Spawn (mushroom culture), equipment and materials. If you’re looking for anything in particular not on our website, please contact us.
As a general rule, keep an eye out for when their cap edges start flatten or turning up. Mushrooms grow incredibly fast, so the perfect harvest window can be as short as half a day. Don’t let the mushroom caps turn all the way up, although still edible, they will have their shelf life in the fridge reduced and not offer their best taste & texture.
When mushroom caps edges start “turning up”, they will start releasing spores which is something you want to avoid. Keeping the newspaper/cardboard at the bottom of your kit damp will help catch and hold some of these stray spores.
Lions Mane have teeth instead of caps and gills. When young, they form dense balls. The length of their teeth is a good indicator to harvest time, we like to harvest them when their teeth are 4mm to 8mm long, and before they begin yellowing.
If your mushrooms become dry, moldy or look unappetizing in any way, most likely they have past their harvest time. You can send us pictures through facebook/instagram messenger to check out what might’ve happened.
To harvest, reach your hand between the mushroom cluster and the bag, twist and pull just enough to break the cluster off the block. You can also cut them off carefully with a sharp knife.
You might have a few baby mushrooms left on the bag, remove them all and clean the bag opening surface before you can start spraying again for a next flush.
Fresh mushrooms are best stored in an air-tight container, with a dry paper towel at the bottom to absorb excess moisture.
After following your harvest instructions, place your kit back to its original position and keep misting them, this time it might take longer for mushrooms to start again,just be patient!
There’s no need to cut an “x” on another part of the bag, remember, the more you open it, faster humidity will escape the bag.
If your block looks dry / feels lighter than when you originally got it, it’s likely the block lost humidity during the first flush cycle. To boost up humidity you can soak it in a clean bowl of water for about 20 to 30 mins. Remove the block and let the excess water drain by placing the cut side facing down before placing it back to its growing place. Don’t leave stagnant water in your bag.
For all oysters and Lions Mane, do not remove the block from the bag, this will dry your block quickly and minimize your yield or chances of fruiting.
Please follow the “Grow Your Own” instruction found here
Yes! Make sure that all mushrooms you eat are properly cooked. Mushrooms contain a compound called chinin which is difficult to digest.
Chinin breaks down quickly with heat, so cooking mushrooms makes them easier for our bodies to digest.
Your grow your own mushroom kit substrate has been thoroughly sterilized prior to inoculation (introducing mushroom culture). Inoculation happens in a class 100 clean lab or in front of a HEPA filter which blows sterile air to avoid external contaminants flowing or falling in before your kit has been sealed.
All our kit bags have a 0.2 micron filter batch attached, which allows Fresh Air Exchange but barriers most contaminants to enter the bag environment.
It’s very unlikely you would find a competing mushroom culture growing from your kit. If you are still unsure, please contact us via facebook/instagram or email with pictures and we’ll sort it out.
Your spent mushroom block makes a great compost or mulch element as it has a good balance of carbon and nitrogen and the mycelium has already worked hard 💪 to break the substrate down, making nutrients available for your plants faster.
This is absolutely normal. Looks like you have a very strong and keen mushroom block, hurrying to fruit.
Lion’s mane and Pink Oysters are notorious for premature pinning while still inside a sealed bag.
If you’re growing Oysters or Lions Mane, just ignore them, if they are easily accessible from your cutting side, you can remove and compost them and start fresh.
This is likely due to drop in humidity around the block. Don’t worry, your mushroom kit still has nutrients to produce more mushrooms. Simply pick them off and keep spraying.
Perhaps it is a good idea to make a grow tent until it start pinning (fruiting)
Often, mushrooms will grow weirdly if there isn’t enough fresh air and/or humidity available.
Oysters will grow long stems and little caps in low levels of Oxygen. Lions Mane will grow Coral like if Oxygen levels are low.
Shape abnormalities can be due to lack of humidity. If you reckon they look dry even though you’re constantly spraying, you might want to try using a grow tent to keep humidity higher for longer.
Lions Mane can easily get water logged, try to spray further away to give them a mist instead of soaking.
Caps that are pale likely need more light. Avoid keeping your fruiting mushroom kit in cabinets or closets. Ambient light helps them develop rich hues and increase their vitamin D content.